"ACTION UKRAINE REPORT"
In-Depth Ukrainian News and Analysis
"The Art of Ukrainian History, Culture, Arts, Business, Religion,
Sports, Government, and Politics, in Ukraine and Around the World"
"[Basil] Tarasko, a Ukrainian American from New York City, has been
coming to Ukraine as a volunteer since 1991 to coach and teach American
baseball. He has secured and shipped thousands of pounds of baseball
equipment donated by various American Little Leagues to Ukraine. He
regularly cooperates with the Canadian charitable organization Help Us
Help the Children Fund.
To help support children playing baseball in Ukraine, please contact Basil
Tarasko at bt4ukraine@aol.com." [article eleven]
"ACTION UKRAINE REPORT" Year 2004, Number 44
Action Ukraine Coalition (AUC), Washington, D.C.
www.ArtUkraine.com Information Service (ARTUIS)
morganw@patriot.net, ArtUkraine.com@starpower.net
Washington, D.C., FRIDAY, March 19, 2004
INDEX OF ARTICLES
1.TRANSCARPATHIAN JOURNALISTS CRY POLITICAL PERSECUTION
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
2. UKRAINIAN OPPOSITION SAY LOCAL AUTHORITIES CLOSED
DOWN RADIO STATION IN TRANSCARPATHIAN REGION
Ukrayinska Pravda web site, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian 13 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 17, 2004
3. EU CONCERNED OVER MEDIA SITUATION IN UKRAINE
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
4. HEAD OF STATE COMMITTEE FOR TV AND RADIO ASSURES
DIPLOMATS THERE IS NO MEDIA CENSORSHIP IN UKRAINE
Interfax-Ukraine news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Russian, 17 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 17, 2004
5. RADIO ONIKS SET TO RE-BROADCAST FOREIGN STATIONS
INSTEAD OF KONTYNENT, SAYS UKRAINIAN BROADCAST CHIEF
www.PRAVDA.com.ua, Kyiv, Ukraine, March 18, 2004
6. UKRAINE TO ELECT A NEW PRESIDENT OCTOBER 31, 2004
RosBusinessConsulting, Moscow, Russia, March 18, 2004
7. CONTROVERSIAL UKRAINIAN REFORM BILL SAID IN LINE
WITH CONSTITUTION ACCORDING TO CONSTITUTIONAL COURT
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, in Ukrainian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
8. UKRAINE ECONOMY TO EXPAND 7% IN 2004-2005--KUCHMA
Interfax-Ukraine, Kyiv, Ukraine, March 18, 2004
9. EBRD GRANTS 120M-DOLLAR LOAN TO UPGRADE UKRAINIAN
RAILWAYS, RECONSTRUCT BESKYD RAILWAY TUNNEL
Interfax-Ukraine news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Russian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
10. 'WHAT EGG-ACTLY IS THE PROBLEM, OFFICER?'
4,000 Wooden Ukrainian Easter Eggs Being Smuggled into Czech Republic
Agency France-Presse, Prague, Czech Republic, March 16 2004
11. U.S. AMBASSADOR HERBST WILL PRESENT $8,000 OF BASEBALL
EQUIPMENT TO UKRAINIAN ORPHANAGES IN ZHYTOMYR
Public Affairs Section, United States Embassy Kyiv
Kyiv, Ukraine, March 18 2004
12. "UNEARTHING THE KYIV PECHERSK LAVRA"
By Emily Urquhart, Kyiv Post Staff Writer
Kyiv Post, Kyiv, Ukraine, Wednesday, Mar 17, 2004
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER ONE
Politics and Governance, Building a Strong, Democratic Ukraine
http://www.artukraine.com/buildukraine/index.htm
==========================================================
1. TRANSCARPATHIAN JOURNALISTS CRY POLITICAL PERSECUTION
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
KIEV - Transcarpathian journalists have urged the Parliamentary Committee
for Freedom of Speech and Information and residents of Transcarpathian
Region "to help stop terror against organizations which disagree with the
policy of the United Social Democratic Party [led by the head of the
Ukrainian presidential administration]", the press service of the Our
Ukraine opposition block's Transcarpathian branch said. "The wave of
repression against the opposition media has reached Transcarpathia," the
journalists said.
"Transcarpathia's most popular TV station M-Studio has been taken off the
air. This was done in the run-up to the [mayoral] election in Mukacheve, and
it should be regarded as nothing else but a direct political order. In the
context of the latest developments around the opposition Silski Visti
[newspaper, closed by a court ruling for publishing anti-Semitic articles],
Radio Kontynent [rebroadcaster of Western radio stations in Ukraine whose
license was withdrawn and which was subsequently closed down], Radio Dovira
[which pulled out of an agreement to rebroadcast US-funded Radio Liberty]
and 5 Kanal TV [pro-opposition channel which faces closure], it looks like
an organized offensive against the constitutional rights of citizens in the
form of blatant restriction of access to the independent media.
Such actions by the state power bodies are ruining Ukraine's reputation at
the European community and are dooming this country to lagging behind and
being considered as a state with an undemocratic and authoritarian regime,"
the statement said.
"We must say a decisive 'no' to the suppression of the press freedom because
personal security of those who voice their disagreement will be in danger
tomorrow. We must prove that we are a European people which is worthy
civilization rather than an obedient mob which indifferently watches its
representatives being carried away to be slaughtered one by one," the
statement said. [Passage omitted: background] (END)(ARTUIS)
========================================================
ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER TWO
Politics and Governance, Building a Strong, Democratic Ukraine
http://www.artukraine.com/buildukraine/index.htm
========================================================
2. UKRAINIAN OPPOSITION SAY LOCAL AUTHORITIES CLOSED
DOWN RADIO STATION IN TRANSCARPATHIAN REGION
Ukrayinska Pravda web site, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian 13 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 17, 2004
The transmitter that served the M-Studio TV and radio company in
Transcarpathian Region was switched off on 13 March.
The press-service of the regional staff of the [opposition] Our Ukraine
bloc, said that this action against an opposition TV channel was "clearly
carried out at the orders of the regional governor and the head of the
regional branch of the Social Democratic Party of Ukraine United, Ivan
Rizak".
"At the order of [USDPU leader and presidential administration head Viktor]
Medvedchuk, Rizak is closing down all electronic media outlets that cover
social and political events in the region objectively and criticize the
USDPU's policy in the region," the press-service said.
The press service said that on 11 March 2004 a judge at the Transcarpathian
regional court, Oleksandr Yosypchuk, took measures to implement a ruling
against the Transcarpathian regional TV transmission centre.
The point of the case is that for several years the TV companies UT-1, UT-2
and others have built up debts of several million hryvnyas to the
transmission centre for the services it provided them, the press service
said.
"Contrary to common sense, Transcarpathian Region bailiffs took action only
against M-Studio, which currently has no debt and has fulfilled all its debt
obligations to the Transcarpathian regional TV transmission centre," the
press-service reported.
"Meanwhile all the other transmitters serving the UT-1 and UT-2 channels,
which owe millions of hryvnya, have not been switched off and are working in
the usual regime," the press service said. [[Ukrayinska Pravda wrote on 11
March that the centre owes 853,000 hryvnyas in taxes and its managers leased
its transmission apparatus to satellite communications and TV and radio
companies. However, since a tax lien had been placed on the property, it
could not be leased without the permission of the tax authorities.
According to Our Ukraine, the tax authorities then appealed to prosecutors
and the regional economic court to invalidate the lease agreements between
the centre and M-Studio and the Zakarpattya Fm radio station. Rivalry
between Our Ukraine and USDPU in the region has intensified ahead of
controversial repeat mayoral elections in the Transcarpathian city of
Mukacheve scheduled for 18 April.] (END) (ARTUIS)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER THREE
Check Out the News Media for the Latest News From and About Ukraine
Daily News Gallery: http://www.artukraine.com/newsgallery.htm
=========================================================
3. EU CONCERNED OVER MEDIA SITUATION IN UKRAINE
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
KIEV - The EU is seriously concerned over the latest developments which
prove that pressure is being put on the Ukrainian media, the statement by
the Presidency of the EU Council said.
"The EU expresses regret over measures taken against independent media
outlets in the run-up to the presidential election scheduled for October,
when the information from various sources, independence of media outlets and
their affiliation with various political forces are extremely important to
enable the Ukrainian people to make a democratic choice," the statement
said.
The EU said that Radio Dovira decision to pull out of an agreement to
rebroadcast Radio Liberty, the problems with the broadcasting license of 5
Kanal [pro-opposition TV channel] and the closure of Radio Kontynent testify
to the ongoing offensive against the independent media. The campaign against
the independent media make it difficult to believe in Ukraine's promises to
hold the fair and transparent [presidential] election, the statement said.
In addition, the EU is concerned over significantly increased pressure on
the independent media and journalists from the State Tax Administration.
"The press freedom and impartiality of the state administration are the main
prerequisites for holding a free and fair election," the statement said.
The Presidency of the EU Council also said that the further development of
relations between the EU and Ukraine would depend on how committed the
Ukrainian side is to supporting and promoting European values and standards
which focus on a free and fair election.
At the same time, the EU is concerned at reports by observers at the
[parliament] by-election which was held in Donetsk Region on 7 March and
which were marred by violations during the campaign and on the polling day.
"The EU assesses this as a negative signal for the future presidential
election and calls on the Ukrainian authorities to take the necessary
measures to hold the presidential election in a democratic environment," the
statement said.
The statement was also signed by Cyprus, the Czech Republic, Estonia,
Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia, Bulgaria,
Romania, Albania, Bosnia-Hercegovina, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro,
Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway. (END)(ARTUIS)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER FOUR
Major Articles About What is Going on in Ukraine
Current Events Gallery: http://www.artukraine.com/events/index.htm
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4. HEAD OF STATE COMMITTEE FOR TV AND RADIO ASSURES
DIPLOMATS THERE IS NO MEDIA CENSORSHIP IN UKRAINE
Interfax-Ukraine news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Russian, 17 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 17, 2004
KIEV - The head of the State Committee for TV and Radio, Ivan Chyzh, has
assured foreign diplomats that Ukraine bans censorship or any kind of
imposition of editorial policy on media outlets.
He said this in Kiev on Wednesday [17 March] to accredited representatives
of the diplomatic community.
Responding to a question about "temnyky" [instructions reportedly sent out
by the presidential administration to TV news executives instructing them
what news stories to cover in their bulletins and how], Chyzh said that the
committee has never in any way imposed information on any commercial, state
or independent media outlet and "will never do so".
"This prejudice is used to create a particular image for Ukraine's
(information) sector, and effectively as part of a competitive struggle
against the state with the use of information technologies," Chyzh said.
However, he said that when a television channel receives information about
some event or another, then it is "entitled to decide for itself whether or
not to release this information".
Chyzh also pointed out that Ukraine has imposed a moratorium on inspections
of and closure of media outlets during the presidential campaign. "This is a
very serious signal about the authorities' trust," he said.
He said that in all conflicts involving the media there are attempts to
blame the authorities. "Every conflict with the law, whenever a radio
station does not wish to return debts or its license runs out, is
interpreted as though the authorities are behind it, as though it is all
orchestrated by the authorities. This is absurd. This is absolutely counter
to reality," Chyzh said.
During the meeting with diplomats, Borys Kholod, the head of the National
Council for TV and Radio Broadcasting, said that Ukraine offers equal
opportunities for all foreign companies to work. He presented the following
statistics: the BBC is currently operating in eight regions; Deutsche Welle
in four; Radio Liberty in Simferopol, Ternopil and a number of other
regions; Voice of America in five; while Radio Canada International also
works on the frequency of the national radio company. (END)(ARTUIS)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER FIVE
Exciting Opportunities in Ukraine for Travel and Tourism
Travel and Tourism Gallery: http://www.ArtUkraine.com/tourgallery.htm
=========================================================
5. RADIO ONIKS SET TO RE-BROADCAST FOREIGN STATIONS
INSTEAD OF KONTYNENT, SAYS UKRAINIAN BROADCAST CHIEF
www.PRAVDA.com.ua, Kyiv, Ukraine, March 18, 2004
KYIV - Radio Oniks is prepared to re-broadcast foreign radio stations on the
frequency formerly used by Radio Kontynent, head of the State Television and
Radio Committee Ivan Chyzh told foreign diplomats, accredited in Ukraine.
"Oniks, the winner of the competition, is prepared to work with foreign
radio stations on the same frequency," Chyzh said.
Any television or radio station may broadcast foreign programs if it's not
in violation of the law, he said.
Last Friday, broadcasting aiuthorities said that Radio Kontynent was shut
down because its license has expired and denied political motives behind the
closure. (END) (ARTUIS)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER SIX
The Story of Ukraine's Long and Rich Culture
Ukrainian Culture Gallery: http://www.ArtUkraine.com/cultgallery.htm
=========================================================
6. UKRAINE TO ELECT A NEW PRESIDENT OCTOBER 31, 2004
RosBusinessConsulting, Moscow, Russia, March 18, 2004
KIEV - Ukraine's presidential elections will be held on October 31, 2004,
the Ukrainian parliament decided on Thursday. The elections will be
nation-wide, according to the Ukrainian law on presidential elections.
Leonid Kuchma, the incumbent Ukrainian President, is not going to run for
another term, although the Constitutional Court of Ukraine ruled that he has
the right to seek re-election. Mr. Kuchma has not nominated a successor.
On February 18, Ukraine's political leaders signed an agreement to set up a
coalition of democratic forces, planning to nominate a single candidate in
the presidential elections. Viktor Yanukovich, Chairman of the Party of
Regions and Prime Minister of Ukraine, also signed the document. He is
likely to be nominated as a candidate for the Presidency of Ukraine.
However, Mr. Yanukovich himself is cautious about this initiative. It is not
ruled out that the post of Prime Minister will be more important than the
presidential post in the country as a result of political reforms. In
particular, the constitutional reform, proposed by the Ukrainian President
in August 2002, is aimed at restricting the presidential powers and
expanding the powers of the government and parliament. The coalition
government would be elected by parliament.
On December 24, 2003, the Ukrainian parliament decided to consider a
constitutional amendment to elect the President in nation-wide elections in
2004 and by parliament - in 2006. (END) (ARTUIS)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER SEVEN
The Genocidal Famine in Ukraine 1932-1933, HOLODOMOR
Genocide Gallery: http://www.artukraine.com/famineart/index.htm
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7. CONTROVERSIAL UKRAINIAN REFORM BILL SAID IN LINE
WITH CONSTITUTION ACCORDING TO CONSTITUTIONAL COURT
UNIAN news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Ukrainian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
KIEV - The Constitutional Court has found that draft law No 4105 "On
amending the Constitution of Ukraine" is in line with the constitution.
This is said in a conclusion by the court which was made public today.
Thirteen judges supported this ruling, four were against it, while two -
Savenko and Shapoval - made separate conclusions.
The bill was drafted by the [propresidential] majority in parliament with
the participation of Communist Party leader Petro Symonenko and presidential
administration chief Viktor Medvedchuk. Under the proposals, the next
parliamentary elections are to take place in 2006 on the basis of a
proportional system in the nationwide multi-seat constituency, [whereby
voters will vote on] lists of candidates fielded by political parties and
electoral blocs.
On 24 December 2003, 276 members of parliament - majority representatives
plus the Communists - gave initial approval to the bill by a show of hands
[as the opposition was blocking the electronic voting system].
On 3 February 2004, 304 members of the Ukrainian parliament decided to amend
the resolution [passed on 24 December 2003] "On giving initial approval to
the draft law on amending the Constitution of Ukraine (registration number
4105)". Parliament thus excluded from the bill provisions on electing the
president in parliament and those limiting the tenure of judges elected by
parliament. [The Ukrainian opposition and Western experts have criticized
the bill saying it is aimed at prolonging the current authorities' stay in
power.] (END) (ARTUIS)
NOTE: This decision by the Constitutional Court comes as no surprise.
This decision was a forgone conclusion according to political experts in
Kyiv who say there are serious stories floating around in Kyiv about the
Constitutional Court being bought and paid for several times.
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER EIGHT
Ukraine's History and the Long Struggle for Independence
Historical Gallery: http://www.artukraine.com/histgallery.htm
==========================================================
8. UKRAINE ECONOMY TO EXPAND 7% IN 2004-2005---KUCHMA
Interfax-Ukraine, Kyiv, Ukraine, March 18, 2004
KYIV - Average annual GDP growth in Ukraine will be 7% in 2004-2005,
industrial production will increase 9% and inflation will be 6%-7% a year,
Ukrainian President Leonid Kuchma said in his annual address to parliament.
Wages will grow 14% in 2004-2005 and the government will continue its stable
hryvnia policy, he said.
The GDP growth forecast is a little lower than that given by the government
and the National Bank of Ukraine. The government forecasts GDP growth of
9.5% in 2004, compared with 9.3% in 2003. (END) (ARTUIS)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER NINE
The Rich History of Ukrainian Art, Music, Pysanka, Folk-Art
Arts Gallery: http://www.artukraine.com/artgallery.htm
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9. EBRD GRANTS 120M-DOLLAR LOAN TO UPGRADE UKRAINIAN
RAILWAYS, RECONSTRUCT BESKYD RAILWAY TUNNEL
Interfax-Ukraine news agency, Kiev, Ukraine, in Russian, 18 Mar 04
BBC Monitoring Service, UK, in English, Mar 18, 2004
KIEV - The European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD) is to
grant a 120m-dollar loan to fund projects for the further upgrade of [the
Ukrainian state railway company] Ukrzaliznytsya, a report posted on the
EBRD's web site has said.
In particular, the money will be provided for the purchase of passenger
carriages as part of a long-term high-speed railway communications
programme, the purchase of railway track equipment and a project for the
reconstruction of the Beskyd railway tunnel in Transcarpathia Region, which
is part of the 5th pan-European transport corridor.
According to the bank's information, Ukrzaliznytsya is expected to invite
bids for the purchase of carriages and railway track equipment as early as
the second half of 2004 and bids for the reconstruction of the Beskyd
tunnel - in the first six months of 2005.
The head of the company's main directorate for development and investment,
Yosyp Krants, told Interfax-Ukraine the contract for the purchase of
passenger carriages was estimated at 47m dollars, for the purchase of track
equipment - at 29m dollars, for the reconstruction of the railway tunnel -
at 40m dollars and consulting services relating to the implementation of the
project were estimated at 4m dollars.
The railway tunnel, which is part of the 5th international transport
corridor is to be upgraded within 35 months.
The loan agreement with the EBRD may be signed within two months, Krants
said. However, he did not rule out the possibility that the project
implementation deadlines might change during talks with the government.
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER TEN
The Rich History of Ukrainian Art, Music, Pysanka, Folk-Art
Arts Gallery: http://www.artukraine.com/artgallery.htm
=========================================================
10. 'WHAT EGG-ACTLY IS THE PROBLEM, OFFICER?'
4,000 Wooden Ukrainian Easter Eggs Being Smuggled into Czech Republic
Agence France-Presse (AFP), Prague, Czech Republic, March 16 2004
PRAGUE -Czech customs officers uncovered 4,000 painted wooden
Easter eggs [psyanky] worth about $2 500 (almost R18 000) being
smuggled on a bus from Ukraine, a spokesperson said on Tuesday.
The unusual haul was discovered as officers routinely checked a bus
from Ukraine at the Chotebuz border crossing with Poland in the east
of the Czech Republic.
"A customs officer focused on checking passengers' luggage and he
could not believe his eyes when he opened one suitcase and found
dozens of wooden Easter eggs instead of personal belongings, Customs
Directorate spokesperson Karel Moskor said.
"More of the nicely painted and carefully varnished eggs were
uncovered in another four pieces of luggage," Moskor added. (END)
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER ELEVEN
Send Us Names to Add to the Distribution List for UKRAINE REPORT
=========================================================
11. U.S. AMBASSADOR HERBST WILL PRESENT $8,000 OF BASEBALL
EQUIPMENT TO UKRAINIAN ORPHANAGES IN ZHYTOMYR
Public Affairs Section, United States Embassy Kyiv
Kyiv, Ukraine, March 18 2004
KYIV -U.S. Ambassador to Ukraine John Herbst will present $8,000 worth of
new Wilson Sports baseball equipment to two orphanages in Zhytomyr.
Ambassador Herbst will present equipment to the Zhytomyr orphanage, located
at 10 Korabelna str., Zhytomyr, at 10:30am on Saturday, March 20.
Additional equipment will be presented to the Radomyshl Orphanage on Friday,
March 19.
After the orphanages are presented with the equipment, trainers from the
American Little League Baseball will begin teaching the children how to use
the equipment and how to play baseball. Press is invited to the Saturday
ceremony and the following training sessions.
The District Administrator for Little League in Ukraine, Basil Tarasko,
facilitated sending the sports equipment, valued at $8,000, to Ukraine.
There is enough baseball equipment, including balls, bats, gloves, batting
tees, and bases, to allow fifty children from ages nine to eleven to play
baseball.
Tarasko, his colleague Harold Weissman from New York, and his assistant
Chief coach Vitaliy Lizogubenko from the State Committee for Sports of
Ukraine are training teachers and older children from the Zhytomyr Oblast
orphanages to coach baseball. This spring, the children will participate in
a season of Little League Baseball, culminating in a final tournament to be
held this June.
Tarasko, a Ukrainian American from New York City, has been coming to
Ukraine as a volunteer since 1991 to coach and teach American baseball.
He has secured and shipped thousands of pounds of baseball equipment
donated by various American Little Leagues to Ukraine. He regularly
cooperates with the Canadian charitable organization Help Us Help the
Children Fund.
To help support children playing baseball in Ukraine, please contact Basil
Tarasko at bt4ukraine@aol.com.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://usembassy.kiev.ua/infocentral_eng.html
Public Affairs Section, United States Embassy Kyiv
4 Hlybochytska St., Kyiv 04050 Ukraine
(380 44) 490-4026, 490-4090, Fax (380 44) 490-4050
http://usembassy.kiev.ua, info@usembassy.kiev.ua
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ACTION UKRAINE REPORT-2004, No. 44: ARTICLE NUMBER TWELVE
Politics and Governance, Building a Strong, Democratic Ukraine
http://www.artukraine.com/buildukraine/index.htm
=========================================================
12. . "UNEARTHING THE KYIV PECHERSK LAVRA"
By Emily Urquhart, Kyiv Post Staff Writer
Kyiv Post, Kyiv, Ukraine, Mar 17, 2004
ONE OF UNESCO'S FINEST
The Pechersk Lavra is Kyiv's main tourist attraction; according to its
promotional literature, more than 43 million people have visited the site.
In 1990 the series of churches and caves were together named a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, one of only two such sites in Ukraine (Lviv's historic
downtown is the other).
The Lavra is one of the major sacred complexes of Orthodox Christianity, and
its golden domes have dominated Kyiv's skyline for more than a thousand
years, making it the oldest monastery in Ukraine. There is an entire network
of caves that runs beneath the monastic settlement which, for a small price,
tourists can explore by candlelight, peering into the open coffins of
deceased monks. Everyone who lives in Kyiv simply must make the trek to the
Lavra at some point.
Here is a navigational guide to some of the holy sites within its fortified
walls.
THE GATE CHURCH OF THE TRINITY (Troitska Church)
This single-domed pale blue church acts as the entranceway to the Lavra. It
was built in 1106-1108, and has retained its original planning and spatial
design. The facade is covered in ornate religious frescoes and relief
sculpture. After walking through the entrance archway, follow the fortified
wall for several paces before taking the first left into an open courtyard.
The entrance to the Gate Church is up the stairs on the left.
The exterior of this building offers just a hint of what's going on inside.
There is no space left unpainted, from the walls leading to the main room to
the elaborately painted interior of the dome. Every arch of every vault
displays a Biblical scene.
The golden iconostasis is at the heart of the building, and runs from the
floor to the ceiling. Its gilded floral relief work surrounds various
religious icons and scenes from the Bible.
There is a pensioner who sits near the entrance and watches over the church.
He holds a small red light pointer, and will often use it to circle a
depiction of an angel blowing a trumpet on the wall above his head. The
angel was part of a larger fresco scene and a group of disciples are
depicted below. The pensioner instructs tourists to walk from one end of the
hall to the other, keeping their eyes on the angel. The optical effects are
astonishing, as the angel's body will twist towards you regardless of your
placement in the hallway. The disciples will also follow you with their
eyes.
There must be some subtle science behind this; or perhaps it's simply the
work of a higher being.
THE REFECTORY AND THE REFECTORY CHURCH
On a Friday afternoon in early March, the priests inside the Lavra's
Refectory Church were busy preparing a buffet of bread, jams and sweet red
wine. They bustled from one side of the church to the other, their black
robes sweeping the tiles beneath their feet.
To the left of the knave, babushkas in headscarves pressed their foreheads
to the glass that encases ornate Orthodox icons. When a tall priest in black
robes and a cylindrical black hat walked in, the women rushed towards him,
bowed their heads and kissed his hands. Some of them pushed small scraps of
paper towards him, which he accepted with a nod. The papers are intentions
and likely have the name of a sick or deceased loved one. The priest will
gather these notes, many more of which were piled high on the altar, and
later will pray for each intention.
In contrast to the prayer space, the Refectory end of the building is a
souvenir shop. In the past, the long narrow space was used as a dining hall
for the Lavra's monks. Now glass cabinets filled with small religious
triptychs (from Hr 3 to Hr 10) and amber beads line the walls. Visitors are
also welcome to purchase a bottle of red Pecherska Lavra wine (Hr 11),
exactly what the priests were opening back at the altar.
The Refectory is a Byzantine-style church with one large green dome that
serves as the basis of the architecture. The church was built in 1893-1895,
and the interior frescos were done in the early 20th century. Unlike the
Dormition Cathedral to its left, the Refectory Church was able to escape
WWII with only a few dents and bruises, and was restored shortly after the
end of the war.
THE DORMITION CATHEDRAL (Uspensky Cathedral)
This is the main attraction of the Lavra. On a sunny day, it hurts to look
at the cathedral's golden domes and brightly-colored frescos. The
foundations of the original building were laid in 1073, but the stone
structure was destroyed during WWII. It has never been established whether
the Nazi occupiers or the Soviet underground blew up the church, but
regardless, only a ruin was left behind. The cathedral was rebuilt following
the original plan and completed and consecrated in 2000.
There are seven golden domes on this cathedral; more than 300 people are
buried within its sanctuary. It also houses the most elaborate of the
iconostases in the Lavra complex.
THE MONASTERY MUSEUMS:
>From Pharmaceuticals to Weaving
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
There's a museum for every occasion within the fortified walls of the Lavra,
and some are more interesting than others. The entrance fee for each one
costs just Hr 3, except for the antiques museum, which is free.
The museum dedicated to the history of Ukrainian theater and the pharmacy
museum are a tad specialized for the basic tourist. Perhaps more appropriate
is the Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Folk Art. Everything from traditional
costumes to pottery is on display in this two-storey building. There is an
entire room devoted to the monastery's collection of bejeweled eggs made by
Carl Faberge, the court-appointed jeweler to the Russian czars in the late
19th century. The first floor houses traditional pottery, glasswork and
ceramics as well as an impressive wall of rugs from each oblast.
Across the square from the folk art museum is the narrow two-storey building
housing antiques that survived the destruction of the Dormition Cathedral.
The structure is divided by partitions, as at the time of its construction
in the early 18th century, the individual apartments belonged to the
Cathedral elders. Now the rooms are used as exhibition halls as well, and
antique and souvenir shops stand at opposite ends of the building. The
antique idols are expensive, and it's not worth purchasing one if you're a
foreigner, as it is illegal to remove them from the country.
Those desperate for an icon can try the Nef Gallery. It's a commercial space
tucked in behind the pharmacy museum. The newly-painted icons (Hr 900) and
nicely framed etchings of Kyiv's historical sites (Hr 390) are lovely and
would make memorable souvenirs.
THE CAVES
Open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Peering into the open coffins of shriveled little monks is the least
frightening aspect of visiting the caves that run beneath the monastic
complex. It's the tourists carrying lighted candles - waving them
erratically as they weep in pious ecstasies - that are cause for concern. Be
careful when wearing nylon. Claustrophobic tourists should stick to the
attractions aboveground, as space is tight and it gets crowded down in the
caves.
Monks reading by candlelight will let you know if you've taken a wrong turn
in the labyrinth, but you can also join a tour group (Hr 8) to ensure that
you don't stray from the pack. It's best to purchase a candle (50 kopeks) at
the entrance, or risk getting lost and never finding your way out.
THE BELL TOWER
Open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
The best way to see the entire Lavra, and much of Kyiv, is by climbing to
the top of the Bell Tower. It is 96.5 meters in height and remains the
tallest structure of its kind in the former Soviet Union. The tower was
completed in 1745 by the architect J.G. Schadel. The yellow and blue
octagonal building has one silver dome at its peak and houses a number of
bells, their total weight being 82,000 kg. Every hour is marked by their
ringing.
The climb to the top is vigorous and dizzying. One clever person painted
numbers on each stair, but stopped somewhere around 123 (about half way).
The view from the penultimate tier is great, but for the full experience,
it's best to climb the rickety metal staircase to the highest observation
point, from which the entire Pechersk Lavra stretches out below, the golden
domes providing a stark contrast to the large apartment blocks on the Left
Bank of the Dnipro River.
GET OUT THE BINOCULARS AND SUN-VISOR AND BE A TOURIST!
The Lavra is crowded on weekends, so tourists who show up early get a better
feel for this holy site and its inhabitants. There are two cash desks that
sit on either side of the entrance; there, tickets for each attraction (Hr 3
for museums, Hr 5 for bell tower) and the Hr 10 entrance ticket for the
grounds can be purchased. Sometimes the babushkas who sit at the gate
collecting the tickets don't notice when unsuspecting tourists wander by
without the proper entrance requirements. Sometimes they do (it's possibly a
foreigner vs. local issue). To avoid and confusion, it's advisable to shell
out and buy a ticket. Maps in both foreign and local languages are also
available from the kasa and cost Hr 3, or Hr 5, depending on which map the
clerk decides to give you.
PROFESSIONAL TOURS
A good source of information is The Kyiv-Pechersk National
Historico-Cultural Preserve Photo Guide, which costs Hr 15 and is sold at
the souvenir store several meters inside the complex. The guide is available
in a number of languages. A bilingual Ukrainian and English version is
available.
There are also a plethora of tour guides on hand who will lead groups and
individuals through the Lavra complex in Ukrainian, Russian, English,
Spanish, French, German, Italian and Romanian for about Hr 100. The tours
last from one to three hours.
SHOW YOUR RESPECT
The Lavra is a holy site, and its churches and caves are in use by
practicing priests. Women should cover their heads, all tourists should wear
long pants and long-sleeved shirts, and all should obey the video and camera
rules at all times. You're not simply a tourist, but a guest in someone
else's home. (END)(ARTUIS)
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NEWS AND INFORMATION WEBSITE ABOUT UKRAINE
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New Issue Just Published...Year 2003, Issue 3-4
FOLK ART MAGAZINE: NARODNE MYSTETSTVO
LINK: http://www.artukraine.com/primitive/artmagazine.htm
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NEW BOOK: Three Hundred Eleven Personal Interviews, Famine 32-33.
"UKRAINIANS ABOUT FAMINE 1932-1933," Prof. Sokil, Lviv, Ukraine
http://www.artukraine.com/famineart/sokil.htm
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